Rio de Contas

Tuesday, May 17, 2011

The Land of Mountains, Waterfalls, and Hopefully samba!

Sunday May 15th

Hello World,
Today I arrived in Rio de Contas after a 12 hour bus ride from Salvador. I’m here to do my ISP (Independent Study Project), and I’ll be researching self-esteem, body image, and cultural/ethnic identity in women who samba.
My advisor/orientador, Gledson (who is awesome!) met me at the bus stop and took me to his house where I am living with him, his brother, and his mother. I have a very cute room with a bunk bed, and the shower is hot! This is the 7th place I’ve stayed in Brazil, and the 4th “homestay.” I’m getting very used to being a nomad, and more and more comfortable living in other people’s homes. I would really like to cook my own food here, because I don’t know how much more white, processed carbs, salt, and meat my body can take, but I don’t want to be rude. So I have to see if that’s possible. (And if I can even find whole grains in this city).

Gledson had to go to a neighboring town today to help another researcher, and is coming back tomorrow night. I seem to have a problem with keeping my advisors in the same city (I also have an academic advisor, an anthropologist in Salvador, but she was out of town and I couldn’t meet with her before I left for Rio de Contas. I was pretty bummed out because I was looking forward to her help with my methodology and literature, but I will survive).
But Gledson not being her actually hasn’t been a problem, it’s been good because I have today and tomorrow to get oriented and organized. Today I went on a walk around town and took pictures (you can see them here). I feel so lucky to be here. The town is beautiful, the weather feels like spring/autumn in NC (I can’t decide which), I am surrounded by mountains and rivers with waterfalls.

It is like a 180 from Salvador
• Instead of pagode music blasting out of speaker jacked with cars, it’s bossa nova-y romantic music.
• The streets are mostly empty except for a few churrascurias and some old men playing dominoes (I’m going to get in on those games soon!).
• I haven’t been cat-called once! Let’s just linger on that one for a while…. It’s pretty incredible.
• Today I went to a waterfall and went swimming at the foot of a mountain (my camera was out of battery, but I will return and take pictures)
• The weather is crisp and clean, instead of balmy and steamy. Right now I’m wearing pants, two shirts, a sweatshirt, and sock, and I’m still a little cold (girls in Salvador, can you imagine that?!?)
• Instead of constantly being told to be careful because people are going to steal my stuff, I’ve been told again and again how safe Rio de Contas is, how there is very little crime, and I don’t need to be afraid. I will of course continue to be smart, but it’s nice to be able to relax.

I really do love Salvador, but it’s nice to have a change, and see a very different side of Bahia.

My life feels a little bit like a dream.

Tomorrow I’m planning on going to the archives to do library research before Gledson gets back, and probably some more picture taking and exploring.

I think this time here is going to be very good for me on a lot of levels. I will get to relax, enjoy nature, and pursue a research interest that I’m very excited about. I could have never imagined that this is where I would be, but I feel like it’s the right place.

Tchau for now!

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