Rio de Contas

Sunday, June 12, 2011

Back in the Big City

After 27 days in Rio de Contas, I have returned to Salvador. I got on a bus at 5:45pm on Saturday, and after 12 hours of trying not to sleep on the person next to me I arrived in Salvador around 6am. My arrival was a little rough, after a month in a town of less than 15,000, with picturesque mountain views, and where it was equally likely to see a car, motorcycle, bike, horse, or donkey as a means of transportation, Salvador was quite a shock.
After managing to get my huge backpack on, I walked out of the rodoviaria, the long-distance bus terminal, to where the buses into the city come. After waiting for about an hour, the bus to Barra where my friends apartment that I'm staying in arrive. It was so full that the bus driver didn't open the door and almost drove away until we knocked on the bus to make him stop.
I climbed in the back door of the bus, but because it was so full I couldn't get any farther than the first step. I was standing on the first step and kneeling on the second while my huge backpack pushed against the bus doors. At one point they opened and I was sure that I was going to fall backwards, but i managed to inch further into the bus, only to have the bus doors close on my backpack, so then I was stuck and couldn't move any further even when there was finally a bit more space.
Eventually I managed to wiggle out of my backpack and the two guys next to me helped me pry my backpack out of the door. Then the bus conductor had to help me lift my backpack over the turnstile.

So after this semi-horrendous/traumatic ride, I arrived safely at my friends apartment and I am now re-settled in Salvador. For the next 3 days I'll be busy writing my 40 page research paper, while I try to process my experience in Rio de Contas. Turn in my paper, make a presentation and then it's officially summer vacation (or I guess winter vacation in Brazil, but to be honest, there isn't that much of a difference here)

Also, I've begun the countdown until the mom and Lauren arrive. 8 days!!!!

Tuesday, May 17, 2011

More Waterfalls

I am on a blogging role. Mostly because I have A LOT of free time. Today I actually started my research, but I still have lots of time that I find myself needed to fill. This is going to be a very reflective experience.

Today I started my research. My advisor, Gledson, got back last night. Today he took me on a walk around the town telling me the history of the surrounding quilombos and this gold town. The town was founded when the Portuguese wanted to find more gold after most of the gold in Minas Gerais (a neighboring state) was gone. When the Portuguese arrived, there were already some quilombos set up. I'm not going to go into the whole history of the city, but interestingly, apparently it was the 1st planned town in Brazil, and because it also had a lot of money because of the gold, they were able to plan it well, which is why it has such wide streets and lots of plazas and gardens.

After seeing a lot of different parts of the town, including the two social clubs (until the 1970s, one was exclusively white, and the other was black) we went on a walk to a damn that was constructed around the 1980s, that has almost completely displaced one of the quilombo communities, Riacho dos Pedros. The government built this dam bring water to a different city, told the people in the quilombo that it wouldn't displace their land, but then eventually they had to abandon their houses, animals, and fertile land, and now it is almost completely under water. Another student, in 2005, did her ISP on the impact of this dam on the life of the community.

After a nice walk, then another visit to the cachoeira (waterfall), we had lunch then really started my research. We went around the town to find the senhoras, older women, who are most active in samba. Many of them are originally from the quilombos, and many lived in Riacha dos Pedros and were displaced. A lot of them weren't home, but I was able to schedule an interview with one for tomorrow, which I'm really excited about.

I feel like maybe I should be more nervous that I haven't really started my research, but I'm having such a nice time. And I feel like once I talk to one person, things will get rolling. At least that's what I'm hoping.

In addition to my research, I told Gledson I had 3 other goals.
1) Ride horses
2) train in Capoeira
3) go to a forro- a northeastern dance that is at the center of the June festivals which are coming up.

He said all these things could happen, so I just have to make sure that my research also happens!!

Beijos!

Day 2 in the Waterfall Land

Monday May 16th

Today I woke up at 5 to a rooster crowing. I would have been mad, but I had gone to sleep at 9 the night before, so I was very well rested.
I spent the morning at the Public Archives, one of my new favorite places (I think I’m going to have a lot of those). It is a beautiful building filled with historical things. The women were so nice, and while they didn’t have a lot of stuff on samba, they pulled out lots of books and documents about the history of the area, the quilombos and festivals. It was very helpful, although it made me wish I could read Portuguese better. I am definitely a much better at speaking and listening than reading. While I get the general gist while reading, I don’t understand every word, and especially when it is academic I get frustrated and overwhelmed very fast. It’s like a puzzle: I know that I information I need is in the words, and I can see the outline, but I can’t make out the details, so I’m never completely confident that I’m understanding the reading correctly. When I’m speaking I can ask, I can make funny hand motions, and I can read people expressions, intonations, body language, etc. Words don’t have any of that.
But after what I think is a very productive first morning, I came back home for lunch, took a power nap, then went exploring a little more. I was able to buy some tings I need at the pharmacy, go back to the internet café, make a deposit for a reservation at a guest house for when lauren and mom come (yay!) and…… FIND SOYMILK!!!! (erin, things are going to be extra great). I was really excited about that find, since the only grocery stores I’ve seen here so far are little mercadinhos, which are super cute, but don’t always have strange items like soymilk. I also found plain yogurt, which can be a struggle in a country that doesn’t understand the words “non-sweetened.”
As I was looking for soymilk and yogurt, I realized one of the reasons that this town is so calm. It has no commercial chains. All the markets, pharmacies, restaurants are locally owned. I’m sure there are some chains somewhere, but I have yet to see them. This is very different from Salvador, where the road that my school was on was not only lined with shop after shop after shop (there are multiple chains that were repeated a few times on the street), but overflowing with street vendors selling everything from underwear, rompers, batterys, medicinal herbs, and recently a bunch of toy horses (I don’t know why, but everyone had them right before I left).

But here, it seems like every store is small and locally owned. Which is really nice. The only problem is that I need a towel, and I have yet to find a store which sells one, but I have hope that I’ll find one.

I’m off for an exploratory run, possibly one that leads to a waterfall.

Beijos!

The Land of Mountains, Waterfalls, and Hopefully samba!

Sunday May 15th

Hello World,
Today I arrived in Rio de Contas after a 12 hour bus ride from Salvador. I’m here to do my ISP (Independent Study Project), and I’ll be researching self-esteem, body image, and cultural/ethnic identity in women who samba.
My advisor/orientador, Gledson (who is awesome!) met me at the bus stop and took me to his house where I am living with him, his brother, and his mother. I have a very cute room with a bunk bed, and the shower is hot! This is the 7th place I’ve stayed in Brazil, and the 4th “homestay.” I’m getting very used to being a nomad, and more and more comfortable living in other people’s homes. I would really like to cook my own food here, because I don’t know how much more white, processed carbs, salt, and meat my body can take, but I don’t want to be rude. So I have to see if that’s possible. (And if I can even find whole grains in this city).

Gledson had to go to a neighboring town today to help another researcher, and is coming back tomorrow night. I seem to have a problem with keeping my advisors in the same city (I also have an academic advisor, an anthropologist in Salvador, but she was out of town and I couldn’t meet with her before I left for Rio de Contas. I was pretty bummed out because I was looking forward to her help with my methodology and literature, but I will survive).
But Gledson not being her actually hasn’t been a problem, it’s been good because I have today and tomorrow to get oriented and organized. Today I went on a walk around town and took pictures (you can see them here). I feel so lucky to be here. The town is beautiful, the weather feels like spring/autumn in NC (I can’t decide which), I am surrounded by mountains and rivers with waterfalls.

It is like a 180 from Salvador
• Instead of pagode music blasting out of speaker jacked with cars, it’s bossa nova-y romantic music.
• The streets are mostly empty except for a few churrascurias and some old men playing dominoes (I’m going to get in on those games soon!).
• I haven’t been cat-called once! Let’s just linger on that one for a while…. It’s pretty incredible.
• Today I went to a waterfall and went swimming at the foot of a mountain (my camera was out of battery, but I will return and take pictures)
• The weather is crisp and clean, instead of balmy and steamy. Right now I’m wearing pants, two shirts, a sweatshirt, and sock, and I’m still a little cold (girls in Salvador, can you imagine that?!?)
• Instead of constantly being told to be careful because people are going to steal my stuff, I’ve been told again and again how safe Rio de Contas is, how there is very little crime, and I don’t need to be afraid. I will of course continue to be smart, but it’s nice to be able to relax.

I really do love Salvador, but it’s nice to have a change, and see a very different side of Bahia.

My life feels a little bit like a dream.

Tomorrow I’m planning on going to the archives to do library research before Gledson gets back, and probably some more picture taking and exploring.

I think this time here is going to be very good for me on a lot of levels. I will get to relax, enjoy nature, and pursue a research interest that I’m very excited about. I could have never imagined that this is where I would be, but I feel like it’s the right place.

Tchau for now!

Sunday, May 15, 2011

Independence

I've arrived in Rio de Contas to begin my ISP (Independent Research Project). I have a few days to relax, because my advisor is busy until Tuesday, so I'm getting acclimated, which isn't hard because it's absolutely beautiful (The new photo on my blog is of one of the rivers here). I'll upload photos to this album
About to go to a waterfall!!!!

Wednesday, May 11, 2011

Should be sleeping...

I should be asleep right now because it’s 12:30, which is far past my normal Brazilian be time (I’m usually asleep my 10), but I was so tired at 8, and I had a paper to write and I needed to clean my room and pack, that I drank 2 cups of coffee and green tea, so now, even though I’m done with everything, I can’t sleep.

I thought I would take this opportunity to write a blog entry, since I haven’t in a while, and I have a lot on my mind. As always, this will be a scattered smattering of my current thoughts. I’ve given up on focused, eloquent blog posts. It’s just not my style, and I’ve accepted that about myself.

So I am more than 2 months into my time in Brazil. I’ve finished my “normal” classes and lectures (as normal as visiting lecturers on everything from racism to indigenous health practices to public health system organization and excursions to hospitals, maternity centers, islands and villages go). Then I was in Santo Antônio de Jesus, a mid-sized city in the Recôncavo, where I worked at CRAS Quilombola, and social services center. That’s where I was teaching dance (see “The Roy”).

I came back to my wonderful host family in Federação and I was greeted by my host brother and sister-in-law who I was surprised to see, because they don’t live in my neighborhood, and I only met them about 2 weeks ago when I was on family vacation during Semana Santa. They were there for a birthday party on the street, which I went to, and then they spent the night to celebrate Mother’s Day on Sunday. I know you might think the way to spend Mother’s Day is to have brunch and flowers, maybe some chocolate, but you would be wrong. The way you spend mothers day is getting dressed up, going to the front patio of your neighbors house and drinking lots of Skol (Brazilian beer) and dancing to Pagodé music (here are some examples- one of the most popular) that is blaring from a huge speaker that is jacked onto a car. (This car is almost always parked outside of my house playing music). So next year, if you want to try something new to honor the woman who gave you life, you know what my suggestion is.

This week is dedicated to preparing for our ISPs (Independent Research Project). We’ve been working on proposing and organizing these projects the entire semester. I am going to Rio de Contas to research body image, self-esteem, and ethnic/cultural identity in afro-Brazilian women. Rio de Contas is in the Chapada district of Bahia, which is a national park, and the diamond and gold area. It is a 12 hour bus ride from Salvador, which will leave at 9pm, and I will arrive in the morning.

Choosing this location was definitely a personal challenge, because it is not in my personality to go with the unknown. I thought I would go to the Recôncavo, which is known as the heart of afro-Brazilian culture. It is the birthplace of the Samba, and has a very active Candomblé tradition. If you want to study samba, it is the place to go. About a month ago, when I was pretty set on doing my research there, my academic director told me that she had talked to one of her contacts in Rio de Contas, and he told her that for women there, samba is very strong and active. I deliberated, and eventually decided that I should take this risk because it’s a chance to see a completely different part of Brazil, and my advisor has more contacts, so it will be easier for my to get situated.

Apparently it is one of the most beautiful parts of Brazil, full of mountains and waterfalls. I’ll try to take lots of pictures. Also, The city of Rio de Contas was established for gold mining, and is historically a white Portuguese city, but before the city was founded there were already 3 quilombos on the outskirts. I will be living in Rio de Contas and doing research there and in the 3 quilombos.

So as I prepare for this trip (I leave this weekend), I’ve finally had time to reflect on my time here. Until now, we’ve been going non-stop. With classes all day, excursions to various locations, I’ve been on the run and we haven’t done very much processing, so its just been in the past few weeks that everything I’ve learned has started to sink and I’ve been able to synthesize and reflect.

I’m realizing how much of a verbal/communicative learner I am. I’m sure that doesn’t surprise you since we all know how much I love to talk, but I’ve realized that the reason I’ve felt very intellectually disconnected is because I haven’t been having discussions about how what I’m doing/hearing/seeing in lectures and excursions connects to reading and knowledge and history. While I know that I should be doing that on my own, and I am to some extent, I realize that the majority of that happens through conversation for me. I definitely normally have that in class back home, but probably even more than class, at home I’m lucky to have friends with whom there is not a disconnect between our social and intellectual selves, and we are constantly processing and challenging each other. It’s interesting to realize how much I depend on that form of learning, and while I’m here I need to challenge myself to do that processing individually. Probably a good exercise.

Another realization, which I knew about myself, but now am even more conscious of, is how much I am impacted by the people I am with. This is connected to the above statement, but I’m realizing that who I am with on a regular basis impacts not only on my mood, but what I am thinking about, how I process information and what I do. I’m sure this is true for all people, and I sound like Captain Obvious stating it, but as I’ve been reflecting on my experience I realize that there are parts of me that I don’t really feel like are expressed in Brazil. It’s not that I’m actively trying to hide them, but because the people I’m around don’t bring them out in me.

I don’t know how I feel about how much I am impacted by those around me. I think that I wish I was more steady and strong in myself, but then again, I guess this trait is part of me “being myself.” I think what I’m frustrated with is not the fact that I am impacted by other, because that is only natural, but the fact that sometimes I actively change my plans or don’t pursue what I want to do, not because anyone is stopping me, but because no one is encouraging me. I want to be more assertive and active in making sure that I reach the goals I set, whether or not they are the goals of others.

For this reason I’m really excited that I will be the only SIT student in Rio de Contas. I think it will be an important time for me to flex my independence. I won’t be able to ask other what I should do, what I should wear (if you’ve ever lived with me you know I have a hard time with this one), or to use as an excuse for not doing something. It’s going to be all on me, and at the end of the day, my project will reflect how I took advantage of that experience.

OK, sorry that this is so long. Hope it was at least somewhat enjoyable.

Rain in Salvador

When it rains in Salvador, you can see it coming.
Looking out my window in my room in Federação I see a dark cloud over the buildings, and under it a wall that makes everything hazy.
As soon as I say, “I think it’s going to rain,” it’s already started and the misty haze is pouring down.
It spatters on pavement, and tin roofs, and gutters and the wind blows it through my window onto my feet.
It’s my favorite sound in Brazil